Bowsprit/anchor well work and keel shaping

Progress continues, and while I wait for bushings to put in the rudder fittings to allow final positioning and the attachment of the middle pintle/gudgeon I have continued with the anchor well.

As I had dry fit the stem fitting previously I put the bowsprit up without the fitting and marked where it would sit, then used the fitting down on the saw horses to mark bottom and top.  The vertical part of the fitting is where the rigging attaches, and is 8mm thick.  I clamped a bit of wood onto the bowsprit beside where I had marked out and drilled holes all the way through.  Then chiseled from both sides with some final shaping with the wood rasp files.

Below shows the hole looking from the side at the bottom, note the angle of the rear of the hole to match the bowsprit fitting.

And looking from above.  The hole at the top is shorter due to the angle shown in the above photo.  I have put some epoxy inside on the wood, but more is needed to seal it up fully.

And a picture of the bowsprit and fitting sitting in place from the side:

 And one looking back into the anchor well, slightly from the side to show the hardwood on the rear of the well where the bowsprit will be bolted.  There is a sanding block in there to make the angle of the bowsprit match the 12 degree up angle set by the fitting.

While I was in the anchor well and had the drill out I drilled two drain holes each side from the corner of the well on a downward angle to drain out any water.  These were 8mm as well, and got some epoxy with a cotton bud but more again needed.  Looking at the starboard side from the inside of the anchor well:

And the port side where it goes out through the hull.  Doesn't look much, and will have a fitting over it so water cannot be forced in as the boat moves forward.

I'm getting closer to ordering the engine, propeller, shaft and fittings but needed to shape the rear of the keel for better water flow to it (apparently!).  Checked Mr Wipple's photos, marked out the rough shape with a texta then attacked it with an angle grinder fitted with a floppy disk.  Disk was 40grit with ceramic bits in the sand paper and did the job.

Mark out shown on the port side.  I previously had a half-hearted effort at shaping the rear of the keel with the electric plane before I rolled the boat over but it was not enough.

And after attacking it for a while.  This is looking from slightly aft, note the sawdust.  I had double mask and eye protection.

A shot close up from the side:

And a shot with a straight edge against the hull to show the roughly 25mm or 1inch taper.  Look to the right of the shaft tube (which will be cut back to the wood for the shaft fitting) and you can see what needed to come off the starboard side.

I then changed disks and attacked the other side.

Here is a shot from aft before, note the disk on the grinder to the left of shot:

And after with some straight edges each side to give an idea of what was taken off:

Engine enquiries continue, as does prep for sealer/undercoat of the hull.

Back to work - easing into it

Now that I have finished my break away from the build it is time to finish this marathon.  I am going to make a finish list and start putting some time frames and money into this thing, so it gets to the water before global warming brings the water to me.

I was pleasantly surprised with how well my preparations to leave it for 15mths survived.  No possums or snakes moved in, a few daddy long legs but they were easily moved on.  Cleaned out the shed and did a dump run, and back to it.  I decided to start small to get back into the swing, and because of the temperature in the shed.

Rudder fittings were the go:

First job was to adjust the tiller with the belt sander so it would slide into the rudder.

Still need to seal it with epoxy/paint but wanted to be able to check heights for the rudder positioning on the transom.

Then it was on to trimming back the rudder to take the pintles.  Started with propping the rudder in place in checking the tiller went through the hole I had left in the transom, then marked the top and bottom.  Below is the bottom:

After cut out test fit:

And the top notched out:

Top final position:

Bottom final position:

Then both were removed and the raw wood epoxy coated thickly:

I put a bit of wood into the fitting and drilled holes to guide the drill bit on the rudder to match the holes on the fittings:

I was able to find a few stainless steel bolts (but too long) and test fit both top and bottom:

This then allowed me to figure out where the bottom gudgeon on the keel and the top one on the transom go.  I still have to seal the holes with epoxy prior to painting, and seal the keel wood again once I drill the holes:

While the chisels were sharp I went up on deck and took back the inside of the stem so I could slide the stem fitting in place:

More work to come, and more regularly now I hope!