Thursday, 7 June 2018

Second coat on hull sides and photos electrics and deck

I put the second coat on the two curved chines of the hull, and with better weather and light took a few photos to show what yesterday's post was talking about.

First off, the starboard side house battery storage, this is looking aft into the foot well that goes under the cockpit/combings.  The battery is held in with metal strapping which is screwed to the frame forward and tightened with a wire railing tension fitting as the space is not big enough for a battery box or tie downs.  Note holes aft for ventilation.

The following photos show the minimalist internal electrical fit out.  Tablets, laptops, and other devices are so mobile it doesn't make sense to me to wire in permanent items.  All lights are LED.  This is the main cabin, light each end of the seat with double USB changing port above open shelves where you can put your phone/device in while it charges.  The lights cannot be seen when standing in the cabin, hopefully will light but not dazzle.  Both swivel back to allow focus of light, I will not be having an overhead light on the roof of the main cabin.  I didn't want to run a wire across the roof to one, but can always do it if I change my mind.  Might put a red light each side down below the seat front down the track if I think I need them for night use.

The port side of the forward cabin showing the double USB charging point followed by reading light.  To the right of the second overhead storage locker you can see the fan.  Second photo shows it better.

And further forward showing the fan.  There is also a large light behind the beam just above the fan in the middle of the cabin roof.  You cannot see if from the entrance to the cabin but should light up most of the berth.  Once the power is on I will do some tests and show the results.

And the head/desk area with a larger light and a small adjustable map light.

I also took a couple of shots, first off the cockpit looking aft with three coats

And from the side, hole forward is the breather for the diesel tank with is underneath the cockpit floor level directly below the bridge deck.

And the cabin sides and top looking aft.

One with the second coat of the hull down the port side.

And just for fun I sat a few stanchions in place to get an idea of how it will look.

Painting continues, one more coat of epoxy sealer/undercoat the re mark the waterline and start undercoat/topcoats.

Wednesday, 6 June 2018

Electric fitout, engine lift and painting

I have been slowly progressing, but you wouldn't know it from the lack of posts.  This will be a bit of a catch up, I will break it down into the three areas I have been working on individually but not all have photos at this stage.


I thought I had taken photos but it turns out I didn't so a few lines will have to do until an update post down the track.  Because the boat is tied to the shed and partially unsupported I don't want to get up and inside it to take photos until all the cradle is back fully in place. 

So far I have:

  • Installed two 105AH Absorbed Glass Mat Century Deep cycle batteries, one each side underneath the berths that go back under the cockpit.  I tried a few different places but that was really the only place they would fit easily, and ran the cables to wire them up,
  • Installed in the front cabin on each side a fan, reading light and two plug USB charging point,
  • Installed in the head/desk area an overhead light and a small map light,
  • Installed in the galley a light over the stove/sink area,
  • Installed in the main cabin on each side under the storage lockers two lights (fwd and aft) and another two plug USB charging point,
  • Ran wiring and wired up all the above on two lines (one down each side of the boat) with the port one also continuing aft and under the fuel tank around to where the panel will be.
  • Ran a thicker cable for a fridge from the panel location around to underneath the seat near the galley
  • Ran two dedicated lines from the panel location around to under the galley and up near the compression post to go out to meet the mast for nav/all round white lights, and
  • Ran wire for a cockpit white/red LED light.
Photos to follow to make the above make sense.


I have been talking with the bloke who is helping me install the engine, working on a time for him to bring out his worker to show him around what needs to be done.  He is gathering commercial fuel filters, shaft fittings, prop etc in the interim.

With my brother in law I lifted the engine into the boat.  First we ran a three to one pulley up on the roof of the shed with the running end attached to a 4WD with a winch.  With the weight of the engine around 95kg each part of the rope was holding a bit over 30kg.

As the weight came onto the ropes we used another one to the side of the shed to keep the engine from touching the hull.  The 4WD winch allowed slow adjustment and raising.

Once higher than the combings we pulled the rope toward the centreline and lowered the engine down onto a board sitting across the combings. 

Then we could move the pulley on the roof of the shed and lower the engine down onto the engine beds.  I had to countersink the bolts forward of the feet to allow it to go into place, once that was done the blocks you can see underneath it were removed 


The epoxy sealer undercoating continues, I now have three good thick coats on the underside of the hull and up top on the anchor well, deck, cabin sides and top, cockpit and rear quarterdeck.  The coverage looks good, and I am happy with it to date (photos to come, sorry!).

Once I had those three coats on I could put the supports back under the boat and remove the sides of the cradle to allow the curved chines to be painted.  I have now completed the first coat, with another two to come.  I underestimated the surface area of the hull and need to get more sealer, but I think three coats will do.  It will then have undercoat (maybe two coats) and topcoat.

Below is the front before, note the straps front and rear back to the shed.  There are also extra supports each side underneath the middle of the hull:

And after:

On the port side before, note both existing props under the hull with an extra one in between:

And after:

And from aft looking forward:

I have a few more but you get the idea.  This is only the first coat as I said, and it is covering well.  I will sneak in for a few internal photos of the electrical work before the painting is done. 

Still to do for the painting:
- finish epoxy seal two more coats
- mark the waterline again
- undercoat/topcoat above the waterline
- undercoat below waterline, which will be a light grey.  Should make the hull look good.

I'm back in the groove with the roller, and feel like I am getting closer to putting the hatches and some deck fittings on.  Once it looks like a painted boat of course.

Sunday, 15 April 2018

Painting underway

After much procrastination and more sanding I finally got to the point where I figured it was time to put a coat of two part epoxy primer/sealer on and see how it looks.  I went with International Interprotect, thinning it about ten percent for the first coat.  I had been a little hesitant to start, wondering if I had done enough fairing but you have to stop at some stage or it will never get finished.

Because of the boat cradle I decided do it in two parts, the underneath of the hull (which has a large flat surface unlike many boats) and everything on deck.  This will be followed with the sides of the hull (two curved chines) from deck down below the waterline to the bottom.  I cut in the edges with a brush and then rolled the rest with a 160 or 180mm roller (not foam).  The stuff stinks, so throw away overalls, two sets of gloves and full respirator were the order of the day.  All the shed doors were open for ventilation as well.

Pictures will hopefully make clear what I have coated so far.

Looking aft from the stem at the underneath surface before, gives you and idea of the width of the flat area as it goes aft to the cabin area and then in again to the transom.  Still have a few bolt holes through the keel to fill (including through the lead, some of which I cannot get to at the moment):

And after.  The hull sides from here up to the deck are yet to be done:

The underneath from aft:

Anchor well forward:

The transom from the side:

The cockpit from the side:

From the front deck looking aft (before I did the cabin):

Looking forward down the port side after cabin done, light was failing so a bit dark but you get the idea:

Overall I am fairly impressed.  Particularly the deck and rear quarter deck where the surface is a bit thicker and smooth with no ability to see through the coat.  Some other areas are a bit thinner, but there will be at least another coat and possibly two once I have sanded a few runs and filled some spots.

I had to remove a couple of props each side under the boat to get at the bottom, but none of them had any weight on them.  I didn't want to remove the sides ones as well leaving nothing, but they don't have weight on them either at the moment.  I will strap the boat to each side of the shed before I take the side ones out for safety, and will probably finish underneath and put the props back before I do the rest of the hull.  Slower but the idea of lying underneath painting with nothing each side to prop the hull if it moves doesn't appeal to me.

More sanding and painting to come, used about 4 litre of paint (one can with hardener as well on top) so far.  Mixes three to one and needs a good stir and to sit for 10-15 minutes before use but so far so good!

Wednesday, 21 February 2018

Bowsprit/anchor well work and keel shaping

Progress continues, and while I wait for bushings to put in the rudder fittings to allow final positioning and the attachment of the middle pintle/gudgeon I have continued with the anchor well.

As I had dry fit the stem fitting previously I put the bowsprit up without the fitting and marked where it would sit, then used the fitting down on the saw horses to mark bottom and top.  The vertical part of the fitting is where the rigging attaches, and is 8mm thick.  I clamped a bit of wood onto the bowsprit beside where I had marked out and drilled holes all the way through.  Then chiseled from both sides with some final shaping with the wood rasp files.

Below shows the hole looking from the side at the bottom, note the angle of the rear of the hole to match the bowsprit fitting.

And looking from above.  The hole at the top is shorter due to the angle shown in the above photo.  I have put some epoxy inside on the wood, but more is needed to seal it up fully.

And a picture of the bowsprit and fitting sitting in place from the side:

 And one looking back into the anchor well, slightly from the side to show the hardwood on the rear of the well where the bowsprit will be bolted.  There is a sanding block in there to make the angle of the bowsprit match the 12 degree up angle set by the fitting.

While I was in the anchor well and had the drill out I drilled two drain holes each side from the corner of the well on a downward angle to drain out any water.  These were 8mm as well, and got some epoxy with a cotton bud but more again needed.  Looking at the starboard side from the inside of the anchor well:

And the port side where it goes out through the hull.  Doesn't look much, and will have a fitting over it so water cannot be forced in as the boat moves forward.

I'm getting closer to ordering the engine, propeller, shaft and fittings but needed to shape the rear of the keel for better water flow to it (apparently!).  Checked Mr Wipple's photos, marked out the rough shape with a texta then attacked it with an angle grinder fitted with a floppy disk.  Disk was 40grit with ceramic bits in the sand paper and did the job.

Mark out shown on the port side.  I previously had a half-hearted effort at shaping the rear of the keel with the electric plane before I rolled the boat over but it was not enough.

And after attacking it for a while.  This is looking from slightly aft, note the sawdust.  I had double mask and eye protection.

A shot close up from the side:

And a shot with a straight edge against the hull to show the roughly 25mm or 1inch taper.  Look to the right of the shaft tube (which will be cut back to the wood for the shaft fitting) and you can see what needed to come off the starboard side.

I then changed disks and attacked the other side.

Here is a shot from aft before, note the disk on the grinder to the left of shot:

And after with some straight edges each side to give an idea of what was taken off:

Engine enquiries continue, as does prep for sealer/undercoat of the hull.

Tuesday, 13 February 2018

Back to work - easing into it

Now that I have finished my break away from the build it is time to finish this marathon.  I am going to make a finish list and start putting some time frames and money into this thing, so it gets to the water before global warming brings the water to me.

I was pleasantly surprised with how well my preparations to leave it for 15mths survived.  No possums or snakes moved in, a few daddy long legs but they were easily moved on.  Cleaned out the shed and did a dump run, and back to it.  I decided to start small to get back into the swing, and because of the temperature in the shed.

Rudder fittings were the go:

First job was to adjust the tiller with the belt sander so it would slide into the rudder.

Still need to seal it with epoxy/paint but wanted to be able to check heights for the rudder positioning on the transom.

Then it was on to trimming back the rudder to take the pintles.  Started with propping the rudder in place in checking the tiller went through the hole I had left in the transom, then marked the top and bottom.  Below is the bottom:

After cut out test fit:

And the top notched out:

Top final position:

Bottom final position:

Then both were removed and the raw wood epoxy coated thickly:

I put a bit of wood into the fitting and drilled holes to guide the drill bit on the rudder to match the holes on the fittings:

I was able to find a few stainless steel bolts (but too long) and test fit both top and bottom:

This then allowed me to figure out where the bottom gudgeon on the keel and the top one on the transom go.  I still have to seal the holes with epoxy prior to painting, and seal the keel wood again once I drill the holes:

While the chisels were sharp I went up on deck and took back the inside of the stem so I could slide the stem fitting in place:

More work to come, and more regularly now I hope!