Sunday, 15 April 2018

Painting underway

After much procrastination and more sanding I finally got to the point where I figured it was time to put a coat of two part epoxy primer/sealer on and see how it looks.  I went with International Interprotect, thinning it about ten percent for the first coat.  I had been a little hesitant to start, wondering if I had done enough fairing but you have to stop at some stage or it will never get finished.

Because of the boat cradle I decided do it in two parts, the underneath of the hull (which has a large flat surface unlike many boats) and everything on deck.  This will be followed with the sides of the hull (two curved chines) from deck down below the waterline to the bottom.  I cut in the edges with a brush and then rolled the rest with a 160 or 180mm roller (not foam).  The stuff stinks, so throw away overalls, two sets of gloves and full respirator were the order of the day.  All the shed doors were open for ventilation as well.

Pictures will hopefully make clear what I have coated so far.

Looking aft from the stem at the underneath surface before, gives you and idea of the width of the flat area as it goes aft to the cabin area and then in again to the transom.  Still have a few bolt holes through the keel to fill (including through the lead, some of which I cannot get to at the moment):





And after.  The hull sides from here up to the deck are yet to be done:




The underneath from aft:




Anchor well forward:



The transom from the side:




The cockpit from the side:


From the front deck looking aft (before I did the cabin):


Looking forward down the port side after cabin done, light was failing so a bit dark but you get the idea:



Overall I am fairly impressed.  Particularly the deck and rear quarter deck where the surface is a bit thicker and smooth with no ability to see through the coat.  Some other areas are a bit thinner, but there will be at least another coat and possibly two once I have sanded a few runs and filled some spots.

I had to remove a couple of props each side under the boat to get at the bottom, but none of them had any weight on them.  I didn't want to remove the sides ones as well leaving nothing, but they don't have weight on them either at the moment.  I will strap the boat to each side of the shed before I take the side ones out for safety, and will probably finish underneath and put the props back before I do the rest of the hull.  Slower but the idea of lying underneath painting with nothing each side to prop the hull if it moves doesn't appeal to me.

More sanding and painting to come, used about 4 litre of paint (one can with hardener as well on top) so far.  Mixes three to one and needs a good stir and to sit for 10-15 minutes before use but so far so good!

Wednesday, 21 February 2018

Bowsprit/anchor well work and keel shaping

Progress continues, and while I wait for bushings to put in the rudder fittings to allow final positioning and the attachment of the middle pintle/gudgeon I have continued with the anchor well.

As I had dry fit the stem fitting previously I put the bowsprit up without the fitting and marked where it would sit, then used the fitting down on the saw horses to mark bottom and top.  The vertical part of the fitting is where the rigging attaches, and is 8mm thick.  I clamped a bit of wood onto the bowsprit beside where I had marked out and drilled holes all the way through.  Then chiseled from both sides with some final shaping with the wood rasp files.

Below shows the hole looking from the side at the bottom, note the angle of the rear of the hole to match the bowsprit fitting.



And looking from above.  The hole at the top is shorter due to the angle shown in the above photo.  I have put some epoxy inside on the wood, but more is needed to seal it up fully.



And a picture of the bowsprit and fitting sitting in place from the side:

 And one looking back into the anchor well, slightly from the side to show the hardwood on the rear of the well where the bowsprit will be bolted.  There is a sanding block in there to make the angle of the bowsprit match the 12 degree up angle set by the fitting.


While I was in the anchor well and had the drill out I drilled two drain holes each side from the corner of the well on a downward angle to drain out any water.  These were 8mm as well, and got some epoxy with a cotton bud but more again needed.  Looking at the starboard side from the inside of the anchor well:


And the port side where it goes out through the hull.  Doesn't look much, and will have a fitting over it so water cannot be forced in as the boat moves forward.



I'm getting closer to ordering the engine, propeller, shaft and fittings but needed to shape the rear of the keel for better water flow to it (apparently!).  Checked Mr Wipple's photos, marked out the rough shape with a texta then attacked it with an angle grinder fitted with a floppy disk.  Disk was 40grit with ceramic bits in the sand paper and did the job.

Mark out shown on the port side.  I previously had a half-hearted effort at shaping the rear of the keel with the electric plane before I rolled the boat over but it was not enough.


And after attacking it for a while.  This is looking from slightly aft, note the sawdust.  I had double mask and eye protection.



A shot close up from the side:


And a shot with a straight edge against the hull to show the roughly 25mm or 1inch taper.  Look to the right of the shaft tube (which will be cut back to the wood for the shaft fitting) and you can see what needed to come off the starboard side.


I then changed disks and attacked the other side.



Here is a shot from aft before, note the disk on the grinder to the left of shot:



And after with some straight edges each side to give an idea of what was taken off:



Engine enquiries continue, as does prep for sealer/undercoat of the hull.

Tuesday, 13 February 2018

Back to work - easing into it

Now that I have finished my break away from the build it is time to finish this marathon.  I am going to make a finish list and start putting some time frames and money into this thing, so it gets to the water before global warming brings the water to me.

I was pleasantly surprised with how well my preparations to leave it for 15mths survived.  No possums or snakes moved in, a few daddy long legs but they were easily moved on.  Cleaned out the shed and did a dump run, and back to it.  I decided to start small to get back into the swing, and because of the temperature in the shed.

Rudder fittings were the go:

First job was to adjust the tiller with the belt sander so it would slide into the rudder.






Still need to seal it with epoxy/paint but wanted to be able to check heights for the rudder positioning on the transom.

Then it was on to trimming back the rudder to take the pintles.  Started with propping the rudder in place in checking the tiller went through the hole I had left in the transom, then marked the top and bottom.  Below is the bottom:


After cut out test fit:


And the top notched out:


Top final position:


Bottom final position:


Then both were removed and the raw wood epoxy coated thickly:


I put a bit of wood into the fitting and drilled holes to guide the drill bit on the rudder to match the holes on the fittings:


I was able to find a few stainless steel bolts (but too long) and test fit both top and bottom:


This then allowed me to figure out where the bottom gudgeon on the keel and the top one on the transom go.  I still have to seal the holes with epoxy prior to painting, and seal the keel wood again once I drill the holes:





While the chisels were sharp I went up on deck and took back the inside of the stem so I could slide the stem fitting in place:





More work to come, and more regularly now I hope!



Thursday, 17 August 2017

Still away - rudder gudgeons and pintles

The second round of stainless steel 316 fittings have arrived back from the fabricators, still learning more maritime terminology.  I thought a gudgeon was a type of Australian native fish but turns out I was wrong.  Took me a few checks of the plans while I was getting quotes to confirm in my mind which were the gudgeons and which were the pintles.  Hopefully I get it right.

Below are two shots of the rudder from way back at the start.  Two pintle fittings go on the top where the hardwood bracing each side is and one narrow one down near the base plate about where the red part of the hammer is.






































Below is a photo from the side showing up the top of the rudder with the hardwood bracing each side.  20mm Australian hardwood each side with 40mm wood in between.  The hole is for the tiller to slot into.



This is a shot of all the fittings.  Pintles on the left with the wide (80mm gap) up top and the narrow (40mm gap) one at the bottom.  Gudgeons on the right, two the same which will sit on the outside of the transom through bolted with hardwood pad on the inside and the large one at the bottom which is bolted onto the aft end of the keel.


Below is one of the wide ones close up.  8mm sides, 10mm on the end where two 10mm attachment pieces are.




And the narrow one, same plate thicknesses.  Note the holes for through bolting attachment to the rudder and the hole in the attachment.  More on that in a minute.


Below is a close up of the transom gudgeon.  Note holes for bolting through the transom into the cockpit and the smaller holes in the attachment pieces.



Hopefully the below will make them clear.  The mounting tabs on the pintle to the left are just smaller spaced and slide inside the gudgeon.  The smaller hole in the gudgeon is drilled at 16mm for the bolt.  The larger holes in the pintle allow the bolt with a nylon bush to sit inside which has a 20mm outside dimension.  The slightly wider again nylon base of the bush sits inside the bottom of the gudgeon allowing the rudder to slide on it rather than metal on metal.



Finally the bottom keel gudgeon looking from the side and slightly below.  Note that edges to the right of the picture flare out slightly to fit the hardwood keel on the yacht.  All 10mm as this will be the strongest part of the attachment and hopefully take the weight if I mount it correctly.



And one from slightly above looking aft towards where the rudder will be.  Imagine the space filled with kwila hardwood that tapers from 80mm wide in to a 60mm wide hardwood end cap.


That's probably all for a while.  Excitement is building, for me anyway!

Tuesday, 11 July 2017

Still away, but got some fittings

I'm still away from the build working, but have managed to get a few fittings fabricated so I feel like I am still getting stuff done.  Six months and counting to resuming regular scheduled construction/painting.

The original design included plans for having various fittings cast.  I decided that I would take advantage of being overseas to have them fabricated in stainless steel (316).  Below is a shot of the ones produced to date, across the top you have six chainplates with backing plates to match.  Underneath on the left is the stem fitting and then three whisker stay plates (I didn't take a close up of those, they are 6mm.





























The chainplates (one close up below) are all 8mm, you can see the triangular shaped gusset underneath to support the right angle step out then up.  This space is where the gunwale hardwood sits (two holes for attachment) and the very top hole is where the rigging attaches, note the slight bend inwards about 4cm up.  Five bolt holes to go through the bottom of the fitting and a hardwood pad into the hull, then a shaped backing hardwood piece on the inside of hull to spread the load and the stainless backing plate last.  The hardwood pieces will need to match the curves of the hull to give flat surfaces for both the chainplate and backing plate to sit on.


 
The stem fitting is shown below looking from the front side which attaches to the forward side of the stem.  The front, rear and flat section on top are all 10mm, the upright plate in the middle is 8mm and goes through the bowsprit.
 





































Below shows the inside face which will be on the inside of the stem under the bowsprit in the anchor well, where there is a small lower deck section in front of frame one.






































Below is from the side showing the 8mm upright piece that goes through a slot cut in the bowsprit.  Note the holes for attaching rigging at the top edge.  Note also the slope to match the one already cut on top of the stem according to the plans.

 

More fittings underway for the rudder, I'll post pictures when I get them.  Looking forward to getting back underway soon!

Sunday, 15 January 2017

Waiting for my return - pictures

Thought I would drop a few pictures in for those who stop by to check in vain for progress.  See the previous post, but I am thinking about things I can work on remotely such as a wiring plan.

Below is a picture from the port side:


A close one showing the portholes just sitting in place to keep out unwanted visitors:



And a shot of the painted main hatch garage.  I put the grab handles on the side with epoxy and some massive 14 gauge screws.  It is easy to reach leaning in from the sloping side decks and avoided any holes through the cabin roof.  We will see how it goes but feels solid so far.


More news when I have some!