Wednesday, 21 February 2018

Bowsprit/anchor well work and keel shaping

Progress continues, and while I wait for bushings to put in the rudder fittings to allow final positioning and the attachment of the middle pintle/gudgeon I have continued with the anchor well.

As I had dry fit the stem fitting previously I put the bowsprit up without the fitting and marked where it would sit, then used the fitting down on the saw horses to mark bottom and top.  The vertical part of the fitting is where the rigging attaches, and is 8mm thick.  I clamped a bit of wood onto the bowsprit beside where I had marked out and drilled holes all the way through.  Then chiseled from both sides with some final shaping with the wood rasp files.

Below shows the hole looking from the side at the bottom, note the angle of the rear of the hole to match the bowsprit fitting.



And looking from above.  The hole at the top is shorter due to the angle shown in the above photo.  I have put some epoxy inside on the wood, but more is needed to seal it up fully.



And a picture of the bowsprit and fitting sitting in place from the side:

 And one looking back into the anchor well, slightly from the side to show the hardwood on the rear of the well where the bowsprit will be bolted.  There is a sanding block in there to make the angle of the bowsprit match the 12 degree up angle set by the fitting.


While I was in the anchor well and had the drill out I drilled two drain holes each side from the corner of the well on a downward angle to drain out any water.  These were 8mm as well, and got some epoxy with a cotton bud but more again needed.  Looking at the starboard side from the inside of the anchor well:


And the port side where it goes out through the hull.  Doesn't look much, and will have a fitting over it so water cannot be forced in as the boat moves forward.



I'm getting closer to ordering the engine, propeller, shaft and fittings but needed to shape the rear of the keel for better water flow to it (apparently!).  Checked Mr Wipple's photos, marked out the rough shape with a texta then attacked it with an angle grinder fitted with a floppy disk.  Disk was 40grit with ceramic bits in the sand paper and did the job.

Mark out shown on the port side.  I previously had a half-hearted effort at shaping the rear of the keel with the electric plane before I rolled the boat over but it was not enough.


And after attacking it for a while.  This is looking from slightly aft, note the sawdust.  I had double mask and eye protection.



A shot close up from the side:


And a shot with a straight edge against the hull to show the roughly 25mm or 1inch taper.  Look to the right of the shaft tube (which will be cut back to the wood for the shaft fitting) and you can see what needed to come off the starboard side.


I then changed disks and attacked the other side.



Here is a shot from aft before, note the disk on the grinder to the left of shot:



And after with some straight edges each side to give an idea of what was taken off:



Engine enquiries continue, as does prep for sealer/undercoat of the hull.

Tuesday, 13 February 2018

Back to work - easing into it

Now that I have finished my break away from the build it is time to finish this marathon.  I am going to make a finish list and start putting some time frames and money into this thing, so it gets to the water before global warming brings the water to me.

I was pleasantly surprised with how well my preparations to leave it for 15mths survived.  No possums or snakes moved in, a few daddy long legs but they were easily moved on.  Cleaned out the shed and did a dump run, and back to it.  I decided to start small to get back into the swing, and because of the temperature in the shed.

Rudder fittings were the go:

First job was to adjust the tiller with the belt sander so it would slide into the rudder.






Still need to seal it with epoxy/paint but wanted to be able to check heights for the rudder positioning on the transom.

Then it was on to trimming back the rudder to take the pintles.  Started with propping the rudder in place in checking the tiller went through the hole I had left in the transom, then marked the top and bottom.  Below is the bottom:


After cut out test fit:


And the top notched out:


Top final position:


Bottom final position:


Then both were removed and the raw wood epoxy coated thickly:


I put a bit of wood into the fitting and drilled holes to guide the drill bit on the rudder to match the holes on the fittings:


I was able to find a few stainless steel bolts (but too long) and test fit both top and bottom:


This then allowed me to figure out where the bottom gudgeon on the keel and the top one on the transom go.  I still have to seal the holes with epoxy prior to painting, and seal the keel wood again once I drill the holes:





While the chisels were sharp I went up on deck and took back the inside of the stem so I could slide the stem fitting in place:





More work to come, and more regularly now I hope!



Thursday, 17 August 2017

Still away - rudder gudgeons and pintles

The second round of stainless steel 316 fittings have arrived back from the fabricators, still learning more maritime terminology.  I thought a gudgeon was a type of Australian native fish but turns out I was wrong.  Took me a few checks of the plans while I was getting quotes to confirm in my mind which were the gudgeons and which were the pintles.  Hopefully I get it right.

Below are two shots of the rudder from way back at the start.  Two pintle fittings go on the top where the hardwood bracing each side is and one narrow one down near the base plate about where the red part of the hammer is.






































Below is a photo from the side showing up the top of the rudder with the hardwood bracing each side.  20mm Australian hardwood each side with 40mm wood in between.  The hole is for the tiller to slot into.



This is a shot of all the fittings.  Pintles on the left with the wide (80mm gap) up top and the narrow (40mm gap) one at the bottom.  Gudgeons on the right, two the same which will sit on the outside of the transom through bolted with hardwood pad on the inside and the large one at the bottom which is bolted onto the aft end of the keel.


Below is one of the wide ones close up.  8mm sides, 10mm on the end where two 10mm attachment pieces are.




And the narrow one, same plate thicknesses.  Note the holes for through bolting attachment to the rudder and the hole in the attachment.  More on that in a minute.


Below is a close up of the transom gudgeon.  Note holes for bolting through the transom into the cockpit and the smaller holes in the attachment pieces.



Hopefully the below will make them clear.  The mounting tabs on the pintle to the left are just smaller spaced and slide inside the gudgeon.  The smaller hole in the gudgeon is drilled at 16mm for the bolt.  The larger holes in the pintle allow the bolt with a nylon bush to sit inside which has a 20mm outside dimension.  The slightly wider again nylon base of the bush sits inside the bottom of the gudgeon allowing the rudder to slide on it rather than metal on metal.



Finally the bottom keel gudgeon looking from the side and slightly below.  Note that edges to the right of the picture flare out slightly to fit the hardwood keel on the yacht.  All 10mm as this will be the strongest part of the attachment and hopefully take the weight if I mount it correctly.



And one from slightly above looking aft towards where the rudder will be.  Imagine the space filled with kwila hardwood that tapers from 80mm wide in to a 60mm wide hardwood end cap.


That's probably all for a while.  Excitement is building, for me anyway!

Tuesday, 11 July 2017

Still away, but got some fittings

I'm still away from the build working, but have managed to get a few fittings fabricated so I feel like I am still getting stuff done.  Six months and counting to resuming regular scheduled construction/painting.

The original design included plans for having various fittings cast.  I decided that I would take advantage of being overseas to have them fabricated in stainless steel (316).  Below is a shot of the ones produced to date, across the top you have six chainplates with backing plates to match.  Underneath on the left is the stem fitting and then three whisker stay plates (I didn't take a close up of those, they are 6mm.





























The chainplates (one close up below) are all 8mm, you can see the triangular shaped gusset underneath to support the right angle step out then up.  This space is where the gunwale hardwood sits (two holes for attachment) and the very top hole is where the rigging attaches, note the slight bend inwards about 4cm up.  Five bolt holes to go through the bottom of the fitting and a hardwood pad into the hull, then a shaped backing hardwood piece on the inside of hull to spread the load and the stainless backing plate last.  The hardwood pieces will need to match the curves of the hull to give flat surfaces for both the chainplate and backing plate to sit on.


 
The stem fitting is shown below looking from the front side which attaches to the forward side of the stem.  The front, rear and flat section on top are all 10mm, the upright plate in the middle is 8mm and goes through the bowsprit.
 





































Below shows the inside face which will be on the inside of the stem under the bowsprit in the anchor well, where there is a small lower deck section in front of frame one.






































Below is from the side showing the 8mm upright piece that goes through a slot cut in the bowsprit.  Note the holes for attaching rigging at the top edge.  Note also the slope to match the one already cut on top of the stem according to the plans.

 

More fittings underway for the rudder, I'll post pictures when I get them.  Looking forward to getting back underway soon!

Sunday, 15 January 2017

Waiting for my return - pictures

Thought I would drop a few pictures in for those who stop by to check in vain for progress.  See the previous post, but I am thinking about things I can work on remotely such as a wiring plan.

Below is a picture from the port side:


A close one showing the portholes just sitting in place to keep out unwanted visitors:



And a shot of the painted main hatch garage.  I put the grab handles on the side with epoxy and some massive 14 gauge screws.  It is easy to reach leaning in from the sloping side decks and avoided any holes through the cabin roof.  We will see how it goes but feels solid so far.


More news when I have some!

Thursday, 12 January 2017

2017 - still on a building break

Just a quick update after a few concerned questions about the build.  I'm currently working away from home, so no progress to speak of other than building up some boat dollars and a lot of motivation to get this thing in the water.

The portholes are sitting in place blocking any unwanted visitors making a home in there, I'll let you know when we resume.  May be able to squeeze in some work on one of my longer breaks at home in a month or two.

Wednesday, 24 August 2016

Engine bearers and hatch garage cont

The sanding in the anchor locker and painting of the main hatch garage continues on.  First thing to do was a little sand to clean up the edges of the fillets and on the inside of the ply, then a couple of thick coats of epoxy wet on wet.





Once it had dried I gave the inside two coats of oil based undercoat/sealer over two days.





And then two coats of exterior paint.  Concurrently I was working on the engine bearers, you can see them in the foreground of the photo but more on them shortly.  Also realised I hadn't finish painted the insides of the cockpit coaming storage locker doors so splashed some paint on them as well.





Engine bearers I decided to do next so I could finish off the inside of the main cabin by building the cover over where the engine will go and the access ladder.  First was a lot of string, square and level work to determine the correct height based on the centre of the stern tube, and then to continue the angle out for the bearers.

It was difficult in three dimensions so made some rough measurements out based on the engine dimensions, bevelled the bottom of the cross support piece and drilled holes through the wood and into the keel through the floor.  Once sitting in position I measured the dimensions of the bearers and got hardwood pieces 100mm x 80mm.




With that done I took a deep breath and coach screwed it down onto a thick bed of epoxy glue.





This made positioning and calculating the heights much easier and by measuring with the block in place was able to calculate how far down each end and chop out pieces to get the right angle and height (hopefully).  Below shows one from the side, the left end cut down to sit on the frame 7 hardwood cross piece under the tube with the angle calculated using the top of the tube and a straight edge.  Ended up needing a little adjustment on the forward end as well.  Bottom left is cut on an angle to allow it sit down enough, and give clearance to reach under.




Here is the starboard side ready to dry fit showing how far the bolts go into the across supports, on the left about 30mm of the 60mm x 8mm bolt and on the right about 25mm of the 120mm x 8mm bolt.




This shows the port side dry fit in place.  The scrap wood was clamped in place to allow the shaft angle to be brought out from the tube and then across with a level to the top of the bearer.





Not too bad level across the two.




Both dry fit from the starboard side.




Nice two coats of epoxy then undercoat and paint which was shown earlier.




In final position epoxy glued and bolted on with the overhang in the cabin trimmed square.  Sanded the paint off the cross piece near the tube before to get a good epoxy bond.




Glued and bolted from the side:





The Beta 14HP I am planning on using has up to 25mm adjustment up on the four feet, and the feet are 120mm long and 63mm wide.  My plan is that there will be enough space on the top of the bearer to position the engine to match the shaft position and bolt it down then.  At worst I can take a little bit off the top surface of the bearers if too high, but I think I am close.

Now I should be able to build a box around it and sort the steps.  Sanding and fairing of the cabin and decks also continues in bursts prior to paint.